The resort where we’ve been staying for the past year’s weekend getaways.
We love the beach. How perfect that we found a beach four hours south of Phoenix across the border in Mexico. With wide expanses of a white sandy beach, calm warm waters of the Sea of Cortez, we thought we found paradise.
Until this past weekend. It’s paradise until it’s not.
Two things freaked me out.
First, crossing the corder at a Lukeville, which is out in the middle of nowhere on the south side of Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument, I saw something I’ve never seen in the dozen or so times we’ve been there.
There were a thousand men lined up on foot to cross into the United States from Mexico. There were no women or children. They were young, all colors and presumably nationalities. I’ve seen news of massive border crossings in Texas, but nothing at Lukeville. This was the first time I’ve noticed anyone on foot.
Next, we had to run the gauntlet in the desperately poor town on the Mexican side of the border. Usually it’s without incident, but it’s shocking to see people living in abject poverty. It’s nothing like our lives in the United States. The speed limit is 25 mph which the signs say 40 kmh. We have to drive through window washers who jump in front of our car with a spray bottle. People are begging in wheel chairs, missing limbs. It’s so sad.
Once through the town the speed limit increases slowly. We were last in line of about seven cars and trucks when red lights flashed behind us. We pulled on the shoulder to let the vehicle pass, but it stopped behind us! We were pulled over in Mexico.
For what, we had no idea.
We were approached by two burly Mexican cops who told us to roll down all the windows, asked for my husband’s driver’s license and told us we had been speeding at 60 kmh. (Not true.)
They said they’d write a ticket and we had to pay at the courthouse before we continued. My husband asked where it was. They said they’d show us but they’d keep the driver’s license until we paid. Oh — and the courthouse was closed for the next two or three hours.
But they could do us a favor. Pay them $160 American dollars, they’d return the license and we could be on our way. Which we did.
It made us angry, but what else could we do? End up in a Mexican jail for not paying? Now I’m fearful of the drive back. We need to find an ATM in case we need cash again at the border town. I’ll be happy to be back in the USA.
However, I have some empathy for the people living in the squalor of the border town watching countless Americans driving through to get to the beach resorts an hour away — driving luxury cars, trucks and RVs. Pulling people over all day long for $160 a pop is a decent living.
It took us a bit of time to relax. We ate delicious meals, walked the beach and read.
Here are a few photos:
Would you want to come back anytime soon? Would you be afraid? Why or why not?
I was just telling my son that I have a friend (you) who goes to Mexico often and says it is completely safe. Maybe I would go, I told him. Now I’m rethinking. When I was young, I had a Mexican boyfriend. We went to visit his family. They lived in a nice house in the heart of Mexico. One afternoon, we went for a drive and went to a high spot near some ruins where you could see for a ways. He was telling me about the monuments we could see, filling me in on the history and everything. Cops pulled up behind us and he told me not to say anything. They accused us of having sex in public (not at all true) and did exactly what they did to you – jail or cash. He told them he didn’t have money, but asked them to follow us to the house, saying his dad would pay. They followed for a while, but of course they had no proof and didn’t want to speak to his dad. They pulled off and he told me we’d called their bluff. I got my taste of “real” Mexico way back then and have only been back for mission trips, soaked in prayer, since. We are indeed blessed in the US.
That is quite a story. How amazing that your family went to visit his family. Yes, I’m hearing more and more stories like that. Extortion is a way of their life. It certainly put a damper on the start of our weekend. Then I was nervous for the return trip. It’s a shame because it’s so beautiful and safe at the resort area called Sandy Beach.
That sounds scary. I’m glad our trip to Mexico was by plane with a driver waiting to pick us up and take us to the resort
They are talking about an airport, which would be so nice. There is a small airport in one area, but it’s only accessible from other Mexico cities. Phoenix to Puerto Penasco would be ideal.
I haven’t driven to Mexico since ~2010 and never will again, due to a similar experience to yours. I was terrified! There’s a scam where criminals impersonate police officers and demand money for you to pass, so I bet that’s what happened. On the other hand, Dr. Zeus has a friend who owns a home in Puerto Penasco. He goes does frequently and has never had an issue, so I don’t know. Like you, I’m very grateful to be on the US side.
It feels very good to be home. My insurance guy said he got pulled over frequently, but until this past weekend it never happened to us. The people working at the resorts are very upset that the police at the border town scare their tourists away.
After reading this, I am wondering if it is something like that.
Oh EA, how scary! In a nutshell no, I would not be going back that way anytime soon. That once safe route and area has clearly changed dramatically in response to human suffering and greed from a few who feel they have to exert power. I know how much you love the beach and that area but really is it worth risking your safety or life?
We won’t be going back soon. But I hate to give it up all together. My current plan is to explore areas of Arizona that we’ve never seen!
That sounds perfect, and much safer… as long as you watch for snakes 😉
The snakes! Yikes. My husband said when he was in high school he and his friends used to surf in Mexico south of So Cal. He said they’d get stopped each time by Mexican police but back then it was $20. Also, when you drive to Mexico you have to buy a car insurance policy. I called our insurance guy and he asked me if we’d ever been stopped. When I told him no (this was before this trip) he was very surprised. He said they were stopped frequently for cash. He said the final straw on vacationing in Puerto Penasco was when his wife got very sick. He said they got too comfortable with drinking water or eating out. We bring our own water and even use it to brush our teeth. We also bring fruit and veggies, but enjoy local shrimp and the char-broiled chicken. If you have an attitude that it’s the price of entry, it’s safe. But I really have no desire to return right away. I’ve only been to Sedona once and there are many other places I’d like to explore like Payson where I don’t have to worry about the water or getting extorted!
E.A., do check out the Payson/Greer area and, if you’re up for hiking, check out Sheeps Crossing, Tonto Natural Bridge, and Fossil Creek in those areas. Look into Oak Creek Canyon (Forest Houses Resort and Junipine are nice) and maybe the West Fork trail (it’s super popular now… I haven’t been able to get in in ~15 years, but it’s gorgeous). There are lots of neat Indian ruins all across the state.
Thank you for all the ideas. We’ve been meaning to visit that area but we keep driving south to the beach.
I’m glad you made it back! Wow, what a trip. It’s sad, but I guess it’s like you say: the price of admission.
That’s it. It happens to people all day long. I’m not ready to give up on visiting there, but I don’t want to go anytime soon!
Yes, I would need to do a lot of homework before I went back. Kind of crazy but glad you had a fun weekend.
It was the long beautiful beach walks that made the weekend. We went every morning and at sunset. It’s such a juxtaposition of a peaceful feeling walking along the water of the Sea of Cortez and crossing the gauntlet to get there!
This experience would put a damper on any getaway. I’ve been to Mexico once for about 45 minutes just to say I’d been there. It was Tijuana so not as peaceful as your destination. Which looks lovely.
I’ve never been to Tijuana and have no desire. I fell in love with Mexico in college. My sorority Big Sis’s family had a home in Cabo, before it was a popular place to go. We used to go for Christmas and Spring Break.Puerto Penasco is so safe and the beach goes on for miles. It’s so peaceful, but that border town makes me afraid.
Oh, dear one. So many thoughts in my head. I’m glad you’re safe, most of all but that border crossing nonsense would rattle me, for sure. 😳
I felt so calm on the beach walks, but the shake down started our vacation days on a bad note. Then on the last evening there, I began to get apprehensive about the trip back. We drove under the speed limit the entire time and let everyone pass us!
Sounds like a good strategy. Under the radar as much as possible – literally. ❤️
Yes! Literally. We also drive our 2015 Honda to Mexico, thinking we won’t stick out. The police commented on what a nice car it was and asked if it was a 2023! Maybe we need some dents and scratches!
Wow!!! It’s in great shape! 😉
It’s hardly been driven and we thought we’d be incognito!
😎😎😎
Actually after thinking about it, it shows how poor that community is.
I would be rattled for sure and not wanting to go back even though I love the beach!! The photos look beautiful and I am glad you could still have a good time and most importantly that you got back safely!
I was so happy to be home and slept so well last night!
❤️
Never again. Suppose you could not come up with the cash! I’m sure the jail is open and you are not going to get that 1 phone call you might think you are entitled to. Nope, notta, aint happening again. Had a similare experience in HK but I was asking questions about the subway. The police grab myself and the guy I was speaking with because we were engaged in “illegal activities.” I was asking about the train schedule. Turns out he is know to be not a good person so the police let me go.
Wow! That is scary. I think they would have negotiated down but my husband opened his wallet and they saw cash.
Yes everything is negotiable until it involves your life.
Yes!
Nope, would not go back. Fortunately I have a beach just a few miles away. I don’t like Mexican food much either so definitely not a draw for me there.
They don’t have Mexican food like we’re used to. It is a fishing village so it’s fresh shrimp, grilled or shrimp cocktails and fresh fish. But you have that too!
I’m so sorry that happened to you and your husband. I would have paid the money too and got the hell out of there. I don’t think I would go back unless I could fly directly in and out of the resort (or very close by). You have no recourse in a foreign country. It’s there word against yours and your side of the story bears no weight. That’s so scary. Glad you were able to relax once you got there but you also had to drive through that town again to get home. Ugg. Hugs, C
I agree we are powerless in a foreign country and that thought stayed with me during the weekend. Right now the airport only flies from Mexico cities. Someday, it will be from Phoenix. We were thinking about buying a home down there. Now I realize what a bad idea that would be!
We’ve traveled to Mexico multiple times, but it was by plane and more in the central part of the country (Oaxaca and San Miguel de Allende mostly). We’ve never had an issue, but we are careful. I think I would also have felt very uncomfortable driving through the area you did even before you were stopped. Such tremendous poverty is hard to see, especially when you can’t help. I’m glad your drive north was uneventful.
I’m so relieved the drive home was safe. I slept like a baby once home. It’s almost too good to be true to have a Mexican paradise a few hours drive away. No flights from the US their yet. It will explode when it happens and probably lose charm.
Cops stopping your car was pure extortion. It’s enough to put anyone off from going there again. We see a lot of poverty in our country too. Some of it is real while at other times it’s contrived to gain sympathy. I’m sorry your trip was spoiled by this incident.
It such a change right across the border from the US. Then another change an hour away at opulent beach resorts. I’m not in a hurry to go back. Thank you for your concern.
Yes, and when you’re in another country, these sort of environment is very unsettling. Take care
Thank you! Yes, we take it for granted that it’s the same as our country because it’s a few hours away. But it is not!
No it’s definitely not! You don’t have the security of being a citizen.
Correct!
😍🌷💖
We are in scary times right now. A lot of people suffering. I think it’s better to be safe, then take chances. The Mexican cops, might not have been cops, just dressed in uniform. Be safe.
The thousand people lined up at the border was scary enough without getting pulled over. Yes, it is a strange time and people are suffering.
Oh wow – the pictures are beautiful. But you’re right – that’s frightening. The encounter with the policeman would give me pause. Hope the return trip goes without incident!
We are home safely. I’m sure it’s a money maker to shake down the tourists. But it’s not pleasant!
Not pleasant at all! Glad you are home safe and sound!
I am too!
It’s very beautiful. But maybe there are other places to spend your time and money
It’s so beautiful and relaxing — without the hassle of worrying about safety and getting shaken down!
We has a similar experience around Playa del Carmen in Mexico. Hubby was picking up our adult children at at 2am from Coco Bongo in Playa and on his way back to the resort north of town when he was pulled over by the Mexican highway patrol who said he was speeding (he was not). After much negotiation, they paid him some cash and he agreed not to pursue the ticket. Corruption runs deep there as well. But the resort is lovely and I hope you had time to relax.
It is so common in Mexico. I think we’ve been fortunate to not experience it before! I’m sorry it happened to your family, too.